Transparent Liquid Sculpey FAQ's
(Before reading this FAQ, please read the original LS FAQ on Polymer Clay Central to get the basics.)
Is this stuff really transparent?
This depends upon how thick a layer of TLS you use. Thinner is better. As it
gets heavier, it becomes more translucent, milky looking. Also, very tiny
bubbles seem to be normal in TLS, but they are not too distracting unless the
layer is thick. For best clarity bake my TLS pieces at 300-325 degrees. Going
over that temperature can cause browning and toxic fumes. Many times am using
TLS on top of regular polymer clay, mainly Premo. The best temperature for the
TLS is above the recommended temperature for the clay. While I have not noticed
any problems with the clay over baking, I do make sure to ventilate VERY WELL!
Better safe than sorry. So if you are going to push the baking temperature of
the clay, do it outside or in another well-ventilated place.
How does it compare to opaque Liquid Sculpey?
TLS is the same material except the titanium white pigment has not been added.
For that reason, it is not as thick as the white LS. Keep this in mind when you
are working on three-dimensional surfaces because any excess will run down and
puddle at the base of the piece when it heats up in the oven. I had to get used
to using less than I thought was necessary. This is especially true if you are
using it to bond clay to clay. When you are tinting TLS, add only a little color
at a time. It doesn't take much to turn it opaque.
What can I do with it?
Just about anything you can do with white LS can be done with TLS, and for some
things, it's better. Both types are great for bonding new clay to baked clay.
TLS is better because if you use a little too much and it seeps outside the
join, it doesn't show. The best thing about TLS is that you can do transparent
layering with it and avoid the hassle of rolling out tissue thin sheets of
translucent clay and then trying to stick them on baked clay.
What about image transfers?
TLS makes great image transfers! Here's how Irene in NC taught me to do it:
Spread a thin layer of TLS on a sheet of glass and carefully, gently press your
image face down on the TLS. By using the glass, you can check from underneath
for trapped air bubbles and get rid if them. After baking, you'll have a glassy
smooth surface on the transfer. It might look pale, but if you put it on top of
a sheet of white or light colored clay, you'll see that all the color is there.
How do I finish TLS? Can it be buffed?
This is one of TLS's best qualities. You can leave it as is and have a lovely
matte surface, or you can sand and buff to a deep gloss or you can apply a
polymer friendly finish. Both forms of Liquid Sculpey are tougher than regular
clay. So you may find that sanding takes a little more work but on the up side,
I've found that it is waterproof. That means that you can glaze the inside of a
polymer vessel with LS or TLS and use it as a vase. Keep in mind that it still
is NOT food safe.
Here are some more ideas:
Jeriw makes beautiful opal beads by rolling a bead of pale aqua or dark blue
clay in fake snow confetti, which is well pressed into the clay, and then
coating it with LS. After baking, she sands and finishes the beads with Future.
Use a combination of opaque and translucent glazes on a vessel form for a ceramic like effect.
Make a marbleized surface by dabbing tinted TLS on a sheet of clay and drawing a pin through it. This works especially well if you add a few opaque areas.
Linoleum cutter faux enamel: Bake a sheet of scrap clay that has been rolled out at the thickest setting on the pasta machine, between two ceramic tiles. Using a linoleum cutter, carve a design into the baked sheet to make a stamp. When you press the stamp into raw clay, the lines will be raised, forming chambers that can be filled with TLS or OLS.
Stamp textures into clay and glaze with tinted TLS. The color will pool in
the recessed areas, making them darker. After baking, wipe down with rubbing
alcohol and finish with a thin coat of Future or other PC friendly finish.